Fashion is often viewed as a world of ever-evolving trends and seasonal styles, but certain designers and brands transcend this cyclical nature and leave an indelible mark on the industry. One such brand is Comme des Garçons, the brainchild of Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo. Since its creation in the late 1960s, Comme des Garçons has been a force for change, pushing the boundaries of what fashion can be and rethinking the very foundations of design, beauty, and commerce. Comme des Garçons is not merely a brand that follows trends but one that disrupts, questions, and reinvents the rules of fashion. This philosophy has not only earned the brand a dedicated following but has also profoundly influenced the entire fashion industry in ways that are still being felt today. To fully appreciate the impact of Comme des Garçons, it is essential to explore its roots, Kawakubo’s unique design philosophy, the brand’s landmark moments, and the ripple effects it has caused throughout the fashion world. In doing so, we can understand how this avant-garde label has not only changed the fashion industry but continues to shape its future.
A New Approach to Fashion:
Comme des Garçons, which translates to “Like Boys” in French, was founded in Tokyo in 1969 by Rei Kawakubo. At the time, fashion in Japan and much of the world adhered to conventional ideas of beauty and femininity. However, Kawakubo, Comme des Garçons Site Officiel who did not have a formal background in fashion, had a different vision. She was interested in creating clothes that challenged the traditional notions of beauty, focusing on concepts like asymmetry, imperfection, and even ugliness. Unlike many designers who aimed to accentuate the natural body shape or enhance feminine features, Kawakubo was more interested in subverting these ideas. Her early collections often featured garments that were oversized, shapeless, or intentionally distressed. By rejecting the accepted standards of beauty, Comme des Garçons presented a new way of thinking about fashion that was less about flattering the body and more about expressing individuality and creativity. This radical approach set the tone for what would become a defining characteristic of the brand: an ongoing challenge to the status quo.
Breaking Into the Global Fashion Scene:
While Comme des Garçons had already gained a cult following in Japan, it was the brand’s debut in Paris in 1981 that truly put it on the global fashion map. The collection, titled “Destroy,” shocked the Paris fashion elite. Kawakubo sent models down the runway in black, tattered, and deconstructed garments, a stark contrast to the glamorous and polished styles that were popular at the time. The collection was met with mixed reactions; some critics praised it for its originality, while others dismissed it as ugly or incomprehensible. However, regardless of the initial response, it was clear that Comme des Garçons had made a significant impact. The show marked the beginning of what would become a long and fruitful relationship between the brand and the Paris fashion scene. It also signaled the arrival of a new era in fashion, one that was willing to embrace the unconventional and the avant-garde. The “Destroy” collection challenged the industry to rethink its standards of beauty and paved the way for future designers who would also seek to disrupt the norms of fashion.
Comme des Garçons’ Signature Style:
One of the most defining characteristics of Comme des Garçons is its use of deconstruction as a design technique. Deconstruction in fashion involves taking apart traditional garments and reconstructing them in new and unexpected ways. This concept, which has its roots in the philosophical ideas of thinkers like Jacques Derrida, was revolutionary when Kawakubo first introduced it. Her garments often feature unfinished hems, irregular seams, and unconventional shapes. They appear as though they are falling apart or have been pieced together from disparate elements. This technique forces the viewer to reconsider what clothing is and how it is constructed. Kawakubo’s use of deconstruction is not just a stylistic choice; it is a philosophical statement. By breaking down traditional garments, she is questioning the established norms of fashion and suggesting that there is no one “correct” way to design clothing. This approach has had a profound impact on the fashion industry, inspiring other designers to experiment with form, structure, and material in new and innovative ways. Deconstruction has since become a hallmark of avant-garde fashion, and its influence can be seen in the work of designers like Martin Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto, and Demna Gvasalia, all of whom have cited Kawakubo as an influence.
Comme des Garçons’ Challenge to Aesthetics:
In addition to deconstructing garments, Comme des Garçons has also played a significant role in redefining beauty in the fashion industry. Fashion has historically been centered around the idea of creating clothing that enhances or flatters the body, often with the goal of making the wearer appear more attractive by conventional standards. However, Kawakubo has consistently rejected this notion. Instead, her designs often obscure or distort the body, challenging traditional ideas of beauty and femininity. For example, many of her collections feature oversized or shapeless garments that hide the natural curves of the body. Rather than creating clothes that make the wearer look traditionally beautiful, Kawakubo’s designs emphasize creativity, individuality, and intellectualism. This rejection of conventional beauty has had a profound impact on the fashion industry. It has opened the door for other designers to explore alternative ideas of beauty, leading to a more diverse and inclusive fashion landscape. Kawakubo’s work has helped to expand the definition of beauty, making room for unconventional and avant-garde aesthetics that challenge societal norms.
Gender Fluidity in Fashion:
Long before gender fluidity became a mainstream topic in fashion, Comme des Garçons was already challenging the traditional binary notions of gender. From the very beginning, Kawakubo has designed clothing that blurs the lines between masculine and feminine. The name Comme des Garçons itself, which translates to “Like Boys,” reflects this philosophy. Many of Kawakubo’s collections feature women in traditionally masculine garments, such as suits or oversized jackets, and men in skirts or dresses. This approach to gender in fashion is not just about creating gender-neutral clothing; it is about questioning the very concept of gender and how it relates to clothing. For Kawakubo, fashion is not about reinforcing societal expectations of gender roles, but about allowing individuals to express themselves freely, without being confined to traditional notions of masculinity or femininity. This philosophy has had a significant influence on the fashion industry, particularly in recent years, as more designers and brands have embraced gender-fluid and androgynous fashion. Comme des Garçons was ahead of its time in this regard, and its pioneering approach to gender continues to inspire designers and challenge the fashion world to think differently about clothing and identity.
The Influence of Comme des Garçons on Emerging Designers:
One of the most significant ways in which Comme des Garçon has changed the fashion industry is through its influence on emerging designers. Rei Kawakubo’s radical approach to fashion has inspired countless designers, both established and up-and-coming, to push the boundaries of their own work. Many of today’s most innovative designers, such as Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga and Vetements, Rick Owens, and Craig Green, have cited Kawakubo as a major influence. These designers, much like Kawakubo, are known for their avant-garde approach to fashion and their willingness to challenge conventional ideas of beauty, form, and function. The influence of Comme des Garçons extends beyond individual designers; it has also helped to shape the broader fashion landscape. The brand’s rejection of traditional fashion rules and its embrace of experimentation have paved the way for a new generation of designers who are unafraid to take risks and push the boundaries of what fashion can be. In this way, Comme des Garçons has not only changed the fashion industry but has also played a key role in shaping its future.
Concept Stores and the Shopping Experience:
In addition to changing the way we think about fashion design, Comme des Garçons has also revolutionized the retail experience. In 2004, the brand opened its first “guerrilla” store in Berlin, a temporary retail space that operated for just one year before closing. This concept of a temporary, pop-up store was revolutionary at the time and has since become a popular strategy for brands looking to create buzz and excitement around their products. The guerrilla store concept was just one example of how Comme des Garçons has rethought the traditional retail model. The brand’s flagship stores, such as the Comme des Garçons Trading Museum in Tokyo, are more like art installations than typical retail spaces. These stores blend fashion, art, and commerce, creating an immersive shopping experience that challenges the conventional boundaries of retail. This approach to retail has had a significant impact on the fashion industry, inspiring other brands to think more creatively about how they present their products and engage with customers. The concept of the pop-up store, in particular, has become a widely adopted strategy, used by both high-end luxury brands and mass-market retailers alike.
A Successful Global Brand:
While Comme des Garçons is often associated with avant-garde fashion and radical design, it is also a highly successful global brand. Much of this success can be attributed to Rei Kawakubo’s unique approach to business. Unlike many designers who focus solely on the creative side of fashion, Kawakubo has always been deeply involved in the business aspects of her brand. She oversees everything from design to production to marketing, ensuring that the brand’s vision remains consistent across all aspects of the business. Comme des Garçons has also been incredibly innovative in its approach to branding and marketing. The brand has collaborated with a wide range of companies, from high-end luxury brands like Louis Vuitton to streetwear labels like Supreme. These collaborations have helped to expand the brand’s reach and appeal to a broader audience. Additionally, Comme des Garçons has been a pioneer in the concept of diffusion lines, with its successful sub-label, Comme des Garçons Play, offering more accessible, casual pieces that maintain the brand’s avant-garde ethos. This business-savvy approach has allowed Comme des Garçons to thrive in the competitive fashion industry while staying true to its radical, experimental roots.
A Brand That Changed Fashion Forever:
Comme des Garçons has had an undeniable impact on the fashion industry. Through its radical design philosophy, its challenge to conventional beauty standards, its embrace of gender fluidity, and its innovative approach to retail, the brand has reshaped the way we think about fashion. Rei Kawakubo’s vision has inspired countless designers and has pushed the boundaries of what fashion can be. But perhaps the most significant legacy of Comme des Garçons is its ability to remain relevant and influential after more than five decades in the industry. While many fashion brands come and go, Comme des Garçons has continued to evolve, adapt, and inspire, staying at the forefront of the fashion world. Its influence can be seen not only in the work of contemporary designers but also in the broader cultural shift toward more inclusive, diverse, and experimental representations of beauty and identity in fashion. As we look to the future, it is clear that Comme des Garçons will continue to be a driving force in the fashion industry, challenging norms and pushing the boundaries of creativity for years to come.
Comme des Garçons in Museums and Beyond:
Comme des Garçons is often described as a brand that exists at the intersection of fashion and art. This is not only due to the conceptual nature of Rei Kawakubo’s designs but also because of the brand’s longstanding relationship with the art world. In 2017, Kawakubo became only the second living designer to have a solo exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. The exhibition, titled “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between,” showcased her work as a form of art that transcends the traditional boundaries of fashion. The exhibition highlighted Kawakubo’s ability to create garments that challenge the viewer to think critically about fashion, identity, and society. This connection to the art world is a key part of the Comme des Garçons philosophy. For Kawakubo, fashion is not just about clothing; it is a medium for exploring deeper ideas and concepts. This approach has had a significant impact on the fashion industry, blurring the lines between fashion and art and inspiring other designers to think more creatively about their work. Today, many designers view their collections as works of art, and fashion exhibitions in museums have become increasingly common. In this way, Comme des Garçons has helped to elevate fashion to the status of art, changing the way we think about the role of clothing in our culture.
Comme des Garçons’ Influence on Streetwear and Youth Culture:
While Comme des Garçons is often associated with high fashion and the avant-garde, the brand has also had a significant influence on streetwear and youth culture. In recent years, streetwear has become a dominant force in the fashion industry, with brands like Supreme, Off-White, and Yeezy leading the charge. However, Comme des Garçons was one of the first high-fashion brands to embrace streetwear and incorporate it into its collections. The brand’s collaborations with streetwear labels like Supreme have helped to bridge the gap between high fashion and street culture, creating a new space where the two worlds can intersect. This blending of high fashion and streetwear has had a profound impact on the fashion industry, influencing both the design and marketing strategies of many brands. Today, the line between high fashion and streetwear is increasingly blurred, with many luxury brands adopting elements of streetwear in their collections. Comme des Garçons was ahead of the curve in recognizing the potential of this crossover, and its influence can be seen in the rise of streetwear as a dominant force in the fashion world.
The Future of Comme des Garçons:
As Comme des Garçons continues to evolve, one thing is certain: the brand will continue to push the boundaries of fashion and challenge conventional ideas of beauty, identity, and design. Rei Kawakubo has always been known for her ability to anticipate and respond to cultural shifts, and it is likely that she will continue to do so in the years to come. While the fashion industry is constantly changing, Comme des Garçons has remained a constant force for innovation and creativity. Whether through new collaborations, experimental collections, or groundbreaking retail concepts, the brand will undoubtedly continue to influence the fashion industry and inspire the next generation of designers. As we look to the future, it is clear that Comme des Garçons will remain at the forefront of fashion, continuing to challenge norms and redefine what fashion can be.
